Nowadays, the industrial embroidery process essentially involves using machines to mimic hand embroidery. Due to its uneconomical nature, hand embroidery has gradually faded from the historical stage. Today, flat embroidery mostly refers to the imitation of hand-stitched flat effects achieved through digitally controlled computerized embroidery machines. The core objective is to use the most economical and efficient mechanized methods to replicate the "even, flat, smooth, and neat" visual effects of hand-made flat embroidery.
Computerized embroidery machines are the absolute mainstay for large-scale flat embroidery production. They use digital pattern files (usually in formats such as .DST or .EXP) to control the movement of the machine head, color changes, and needle penetration. Achieving flat embroidery effects primarily relies on the following core stitch types and auxiliary techniques:
Running Stitch / Straight Stitch: Mainly used for outlining contours and detailing lines. This is the most basic stitch type. The needle moves in straight or curved lines at even intervals, interlacing threads of various colors on the fabric to outline the pattern. The stitch density (SPI, Stitches Per Inch) can be adjusted—the smaller the stitch spacing, the denser and smoother the lines, resulting in finer patterns.
Satin Stitch / Column Stitch: This is the most core and commonly used stitch in machine flat embroidery, simulating the filling effects of hand-made flat and layered stitches. It forms smooth color blocks through tightly arranged, glossy thread columns. It is commonly used for letters, pattern borders, and fills. The needle moves back and forth between the two boundary lines of the pattern, so the thread direction is roughly perpendicular to the boundaries. Stitch density is a key parameter: higher density results in a smoother, flatter surface and better coverage but consumes more thread and stiffens the fabric. Too low a density will expose the base fabric, making it appear rough.
For wider patterns, the machine automatically divides them into multiple parallel "bridges" for embroidery to ensure flatness and strength. This is known as split satin stitch, which is often used on stiffer fabrics to prevent wrinkling.
Tatami Stitch / Fill Stitch: Mostly used for filling large pattern areas. It mimics the layered thread-laying effect of hand embroidery, using less thread than satin stitch and resulting in softer fabric. The stitches fill the entire area in parallel, interlocking back-and-forth motions, similar to a "Z"-shaped path or back and forth at specific angles (e.g., 45 degrees, 90 degrees). The stitch angle and density can be adjusted to create different textures (such as twill or grid patterns) and light-shadow variations. It is the best choice for embroidering large backgrounds, animal bodies, landscapes, etc.
Underlay: This is a crucial "invisible" process in machine embroidery that directly determines the final quality of the embroidered piece. It prevents elastic fabrics from deforming or slipping. On uneven fabrics (e.g., terry cloth, wool), an underlay is stitched first to create a flat "foundation" for the satin stitches on top. Underlay stitches in different directions can shape the convex and concave forms of areas. For fabrics prone to fraying, an underlay helps secure the yarn.
Common underlay types include "zigzag underlay," "edge run underlay," and "center underlay," which are combined by digitizers based on the situation.
Below is the production process for machine flat embroidery:
1.Design Draft: The designer provides a vector or bitmap image.
2.Digitizing: This is the most core technical step. The digitizer uses professional software (e.g., Wilcom, Tajima DG/ML) to convert the design into instruction files readable by the embroidery machine.
The digitizer defines: the contours of each object, the stitch type (satin stitch/tatami stitch), stitch angle, density, stitch sequence, color change sequence, and underlay settings.
The skill of the digitizer directly determines the final product's quality and efficiency. Our factory’s workers have over ten years of experience, and it is their outstanding expertise that enables us to deliver high-quality products to our customers.
3.Machine Setup:
- Select fabric and thread: Choose appropriate fabric (base cloth) and embroidery thread (usually polyester or rayon, with the latter having better gloss) based on product requirements.
- Select needle size: Choose the machine needle according to the thread thickness.
- Hooping: Tightly stretch the fabric in the embroidery hoop. This is a critical step to ensure smooth, wrinkle-free embroidery.
4.Production:
- Import the digitized file into the embroidery machine.
- Install the embroidery hoop, and the machine starts automatically, performing all actions such as color changes, embroidery, and thread trimming.
5.Finishing:
- Remove backing: Cut out the embroidered piece and tear off the backing or adhesive-style embroidery stabilizer. The stabilizer provides support and stability during embroidery, preventing fabric shrinkage and deformation.
- Ironing: Press the embroidered piece to ensure smoothness.
Alright, the detailed knowledge about machine embroidery is as above. We deeply understand that exquisite craftsmanship is only the foundation—the real value we bring you lies in the perfect integration of technology with your product needs.
If you have customization requirements (such as hats, workwear, or brand logo embroidery), our expert team is always ready to provide technical support and quotation consultations.
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